Tuesday June 3rd Vilanova de Arousa to Teo 43 km

Tuesday, June 4th, Vilanova de Arousa to Teo (28km water,15km walking)

It was a dark and stormy morning as we sate our yogurt and croissant and bananas, all pondering the boat ride upriver during the rain and wind. We finished packing our packs and put on our boots, then took boots off to put on rain gear.  When all trekkers were appropriately rain-geared up we set out in the predawn rain and wind to walk to the boat launch and await our ride inland. 

When we arrived at the boat launch we joined a growing mass of wet and huddled pilgrims hugging the leeward wall of a building. Soon after our arrival two mariners appeared and informed the now 20+ peregrinos that the weather was too bad to go and it’s ‘safety first’, after all. We were told we could get a refund and walk the 28km to Padron or take a taxi. We opted for a taxi and set off to find one as the as the storm swirled around us. Just as we made this decision a rigid inflatable boat about 25 feet long pulled up and the captain started calling out names for those booked to go upriver. This second service caused our boat’s crew to to rethink the cancellation and we were told to come back and climb aboard, sit down and hold on— more or less. Ten of us and the two mariners then set out in the wind driven rain in a 300hp outboard engine, open deck, blue water fishing boat similar to a large Grady White. About 45 minutes later (after a few sightseeing diversions) we arrived at a dock a couple km outside Padron.  As most were damp or wet and chilled we stopped at the first bar cafe for a hot cafe con leche and to remove some rain gear as the weather was improving. 

Warmer and caffeinated, we started walking for a couple hours. In Padron we looked into the St James Church of Padron built in 1133 that had an open depression behind the alter. In this depression was a significant stone post, a Padron, maybe 18” square and 6 visible feet tall above ground. On the post was an inscription noting that this is where the boat carrying the body of Apostle James, brother of John, tied up to mooring. Later We stopped for second breakfast which was egg cheese and potato frittata (a tortilla here), spent an hour reflecting on all we’d experienced this morning, and finished drying out. Our path was  e ok’ing more built up as we’re on the final approach to Santiago de Compostela but still offered trails through woodlands and various foot massaging rocky sections to remind us we’re lowly pilgrims. One particularly rocky section looked familiar in a Romanesque way and sure enough, we once again came upon cart wheel tracks carved into the huge rocks that make the trail. another wow moment reminding us how old these paths are. 

We are staying at our first Casa Rural, Parada de Francos in Teo  Spain, an upscale country inn. Tomorrow, with rain in the forecast, we walk into Santiago de Compostela. 

Pictures to follow but internet is mucho slow today so pictures will wait.