I need to mention that the hospitalera running the place we stayed last night was a remarkable woman, I have never seen anyone so full of joy in her work. After running a busy bar all afternoon on Saturday (with help from family), she served 3 course dinner in two shifts to approximately 80 people. And she's completely smiling and merry the whole time!

This is the house wine -

We were amazed to come in for coffee and a roll at 7:00 this AM and find her behind the bar once again, smiling from ear to ear with friendly words for everyone. Truly a joy to watch her and wonder what one could learn from her.
So, on to today. It was very Galician this morning (we've heard that rain is more common in this region), it was also cold and windy. Full rain gear on and full steam ahead!


First major stop was Triacastela, ancient site of three castles, none now extant, but you can just barely see the arms of the three great houses on the church tower, just under the statue of Santiago.

Don't know if this gives a better view, one is center, and one on each end.

The churches in small villages seem to be getting smaller

Finally the day gave way to sun!

We did lots of up,

And our share of picking our way down - wet, flat rocks can be very slippery!

This afternoon we reached Sarria, the traditional starting place for observant Catholics who want to receive a Compostella. Our book tells us that the crowds will increase exponentially. B doesn't see how this can happen unless the entire population of Spain drops what they're doing and joins the trail today, I hope not!!!!
After late breakfast and drying feet at about 19km,

We could see Sarria in the background

Fortunately or unfortunately, we also witnessed "field enrichment" just like we used to see (and smell) in Germany, i.e., Suck the contents of a muck pond into a tank, drive to your field, turn on the sprayer - voila!

Here's the church of Santa Marina in Sarria, notice the all important pilgrim stamp directions in lower left corner!

This door is 13th century, Christ in majesty over all the earth, at Iglesia El Salvador.

B and I skipped the pilgrims menu this evening, I couldn't bear the thought of fries again........
caesar salad for me, lentils and a burger for B -

And a simply wonderful tarte de manzano (apple pie).

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